目次

1. Models and the Coastal System. Introduction. Background to thesystems approach. Why the systems approach? The coast as a system. Studyingthe coastal system-holistic and reductionist views. Significant systemcharacteristics. Modeling the coastal system. 2. Modeling the Simulation ofthe Coastal System. General concepts and terminology. Why simulation? Thesimulation process. 3. Modeling of Offshore Structures. Introduction.Similarity laws in model testing. Scaling of a Froude model. Dimensionalanalysis. Scaling of wave forces on structures. Scaling of Reynolds effects.Scaling of Strouhal effects. Scaling of towing resistance. Scaling of softvolumes. Scaling of hydroelastic models. Distorted model. Scale selection andmodel design. 4. Wave Prediction Models. Introduction. Empirical models. Waveclimate models. Wave refraction and shoaling. Shallow water models. Numericalmodels. Conclusions. 5. Computer Simulation of the Characteristics ofShoreward Propagating Deep and Shallow Water Waves. Introduction. Comments onprevious wave modeling studies. Model development. Model execution andresults. Limitations and refinements. 6. Sandy Beach Geomorphology Elucidatedby Laboratory Modeling. Introduction. A basic model for describing beachchange. A parameter describing the on-offshore sediment transport direction.Beach profile demarcation. Berm-step system. Bar-trough system. Beach-faceslopes. Rhythmic shore forms. Shoreline change. Concluding remarks. 7. BeachProfile Development. Introduction. Theory. Equilibrium profile. Time factor.Method of calculation. Model testing. Three-dimensional test. Effect of tidalsmearing. Distribution of eroded sand offshore. 8. Space Time Monitoring ofBeach Morphodynamics: A Black Box Approach. Introduction. Systems-theoreticview of beach management. Treating the beach as a control system. The PointPelee situation. Processes affecting the beaches of Point Pelee. The effectsof artificial structures. The study area. Observations at the NortheastBeach, 1978-1986. Implications of the study results. 9. Sea LevelOscillations and the Development of Rock Coasts. Introduction. The model. Thepaleo-sea level record. Falling and rising sea levels. The lastglacial/interglacial sequence. Multiple sea level oscillations. Discussion.10. Computer Simulation of Wave and Fluvial-Dominated Nearshore Environments.Introduction. General remarks on model development. Simulating wavecharacteristics with program WAVE. Background for three-dimensionalsimulation of wave processes. Numerical methods for solving equations. Mainprogram. Program SEDSIM. Modifications to WAVE and SEDSIM. Input data forSEDSIM. Execution of WAVE and SEDSIM. Execution and results of WAVE andSEDSIM. Conclusions and limitations. 11. Preferences over Cyclical PathsGenerated by Predator-Prey Interactions: An Application in Coastal EcosystemManagement. Introduction. Predator-prey models. A model. Preferences.Concluding comment. 12.