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VOLUME 1: LATE MEDIEVAL TO RENAISSANCE SERIES PREFACE INTRODUCTION PARTI: GRACEFUL OR MAGNIFICENT: FASHION AND AESTHETICS 1. Costume and FashionFernand Braudel 2. Fashion in French Crusade Literature: Desiring InfidelTextiles Sarah-Grace Heller 3. Art and Life: The Aesthetic Sentiment JohanHuizinga 4. The Medieval Aesthetic Sensibility Umberto Eco 5. Society andFestivals Jacob Burckhardt 6. Order and Fashion in Clothes: The King, HisHousehold and the City of London at the End of the Fifteenth Century Anne F.Sutton 7. Summer: The Last Century, 1550-1644 Timothy Brook PART 2: FASHION,APPEARANCE AND CULTURAL ORDER 8. Between Clothing and Nudity Mario Perniola9. Women and Sumptuary Law Catherine Kovesi Killerby 10. The Upward Trainingof the Body from the Age of Chivalry to Courtly Civility Georges Vigarello11. The Renaissance Beard: Masculinity in Early Modern England Will Fisher12. Appearances Georges Vigarello PART 3: FASHION'S FORMS - CUSTOMS ANDFOREIGNERS 13. The Devil and His Striped Clothes, 13th-16th Centuries MichelPastoureau 14. Venice and the Dress of Foreigners Stella Mary Newton 15.Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies Bronwen Wilson 16. Sewing Connections:Elizabeth Tudor, Mary Stuart, Elizabeth Talbot, and Seventeenth-centuryAnonymous Needleworkers Susan Frye 17. Feathers and Flies: Aphra Behn and theSeventeenth-century Trade in Exotica Margaret W. Ferguson PART 4: TRADING INLOOKS 18. Clothing Provision and the Great Wardrobe in the Mid-thirteenthCentury Kay Staniland 19. The Currency of Clothing Ann Rosalind Jones andPeter Stallybrass 20. Gendered Space in Renaissance Florence: TheorizingPublic and Private in the 'Rag Trade' Carole Collier Frick 21. The Economicsof Clothing in the Late Seventeenth Century N.B. Harte 22. The Cost ofApparel in Seventeenth-century England, and the Accuracy of Gregory KingMargaret Spufford PART 5: FASHION AND REINFORCEMENT 23. Looks and AppearanceBaldesar Castiglione 24. Gesture, Ritual and Social Order in Sixteenth toEighteenth-century Poland Maria Bogucka 25. Prescribing Literature: Dress,Politics and Gender in Sixteenth-century Italian Conduct Literature ElizabethCurrie 26. Masculine Apparel Stephen Orgel 27. To Fashion a Self: Dressing inSeventeenth-century England Sue Vincent 28. 'Twisted' Poses. The KabukuAesthetic in Early Edo Genre Painting John T. Carpenter VOLUME 2: THEEIGHTEENTH CENTURY SERIES PREFACE INTRODUCTION PART 1: THE POWER OF DRESS 1.The Cavaliers and the Parvenus as Imitators of the Court Werner Sombart 2.Lord Chesterfield's Letters to his Son, 1750-1751 The Earl of Chesterfield 3.Regrets on Parting with my Old Dressing Gown, or A Warning to Those Who HaveMore Taste than Fortune Denis Diderot 4. Eros and Liberty at the EnglishMasquerade, 1710-1790 Terry Castle 5. Freedom of Dress in RevolutionaryFrance Lynn Hunt PART 2: FASHION - ART - ARTIFICE 6. The Purged Century PieroCamporesi 7. Popular Dress Daniel Roche 8. Image-Object-Space Katie Scott 9.The Artistic Expression of Iki [Chic] Kuki Shuzo 10. Street Style: Dress inJohn Gay's 'Trivia' Aileen Ribeiro 11. Nature and Artifice Georges Vigarello12. Fleshing Out the Revolution Ewa Lajer-Burcharth PART 3: FASHION AND THEAPPEARANCE INDUSTRIES 13. Consumer Behaviour, Textiles and Dress in the LateSeventeenth and Early Eighteenth Centuries Lorna Weatherill 14. EuropeanConsumption and Asian Production in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth CenturiesJohn E. Wills, Jr. 15. Taxes upon consumable commodities, 1776 Adam Smith 16.The Queen and Her 'Minister of Fashion': Gender, Credit and Politics inPre-Revolutionary France Clare Haru Crowston 17. The Production and Marketingof Populuxe Goods in Eighteenth-century Paris Cissie Fairchilds 18.Developing Consumerism and the Ready-made Clothing Trade in Britain,1750-1800 Beverly Lemire 19. Involuntary Consumers? Servants and TheirClothes in Eighteenth-century England John Styles VOLUME 3: THE NINETEENTHCENTURY SERIES PREFACE INTRODUCTION PART 1: FASHION AND URBAN LIFE 1. AdolfLoos and the English Dandy Jules Lubbock 2. The Treatises of Dandyism RhondaK. Garelick 3. The Invisible Flaneur Elizabeth Wilson 4. The Actress: CoventGarden and The Strand, 1880-1914 Christopher Breward 5. The Suffrage ResponseJoel H. Kaplan and Sheila Stowell 6. 'Tigersprung': Fashioning History UlrichLehmann PART 2: FROM THE LOVE OF FINERY TO HONEST CLOTH 7. The Love ofFinery: Fashion and the Fallen Woman in Nineteenth-century Social DiscourseMariana Valverde 8. The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making ofthe Victorian Woman Helene E. Roberts 9. Dress Reform as Antifeminism DavidKunzle 10. Reply to David Kunzle, 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism' Helene E.Roberts 11. Fashion - Jewellery Marguerite de Ponty (Mallarme) 12. FashionMarguerite de Ponty (Mallarme) 13. Consuming Kashmir: Shawls and Empires,1500-2000 Michelle Maskiell 14. The Management of Colour: The Kashmir Shawlin a Nineteenth-century Debate David Brett 15. Sartorial Ideologies: FromHomespun to Ready-made Michael Zakim 16. Cheap Mass-produced Men's Clothingin the Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries Sarah Levitt PART 3:NINETEENTH-CENTURY FASHION AS FEMALE CULTURE 17. Invisible Clothing PhilippePerrot 18. Wool Cloth and Gender: The Use of Woollen Cloth in Women's Dressin Britain, 1865-85 Lou Taylor 19. Materializing Mourning: Hair, Jewelleryand the Body Marcia Pointon 20. Femininity and Consumption: The Problem ofthe Late Nineteenth-century Fashion Journal Christopher Breward 21. "A Dreamof Fair Women": Revival Dress and the Formation of Late Victorian Images ofFemininity Margaret Maynard 22. Femme Fatale: Fashion and Visual Culture inFin-de-siecle Paris Valerie Steele 23. Sex and the City: MetropolitanModernities in English History Margot C. Finn VOLUME 4: THE TWENTIETH CENTURYTO TODAY SERIES PREFACE INTRODUCTION PART 1: FASHION'S STRUCTURES 1. Dress asan Expression of the Pecuniary Culture Thorstein Veblen 2. The Philosophy ofFashion; and Adornment Georg Simmel 3. The Economic and Social Role ofFashion Pierre Clerget 4. The Cerementing of the Gentleman Gerald Heard 5.The Predominance of Male Homosociality J.C. Flugel 6. Epilogue on TrousersEric Gill 7. The Functions of Folk Costume in Moravian Slovakia PetrBogatyrev 8. An Economic Interpretation of Women's Fashions Paul M. GregoryPART 2: FASHION AND FANTASY 9. Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming Murray Wax10. The Economics of Fashion Demand Dwight E. Robinson 11. From Gemstones toJewellery Roland Barthes PART 3: FASHION AND IDENTITY 12. Fashion: From ClassDifferentiation to Collective Selection Herbert Blumer 13. Why the MidiFailed Fred D. Reynolds and William R. Darden 14. The Production of Belief:Contribution to an Economy of Symbolic Goods Pierre Bourdieu 15. FashionShapes: Film, the Fashion Industry and the Image of Women Maureen Turim 16.Other People's Clothes? The International Second-hand Clothing Trade andDress Practices in Zambia Karen Tranberg Hansen PART 4: FASHION ANDAESTHETICS 17. To Cut is to Think Germano Celant 18. Illuminations - Warholin the 1950s Richard Martin 19. The Golden Dustman: A Critical Evaluation ofthe Work of Martin Margiela Caroline Evans 20. Art, Fashion and Music in theCulture Society Angela McRobbie 21. Vionnet & Classicism Rebecca Arnold 22.Paul Poiret's Minaret Style: Originality, Reproduction and Art in FashionNancy Troy 23. Hollywood Glamour and Mass Consumption in Postwar ItalyStephen Gundle 24. Magic Fashion Elizabeth Wilson