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Acknowledgments 1. Introduction Etymology of Fashion Fashion as a Concept and a Phenomenon Proponents and Opponents of Fashion Studies of Fashion in Social Science Outline of the Book 2. Sociological Discourse and Empirical Studies of Fashion Classical Sociological Discourse of Fashion Fashion, Modernity and Social Mobility The Origin of Fashion Phenomenon Contemporary Sociological Studies of Fashion Fashion and Sociology of Culture Fashion as a Manufactured Cultural Symbol Conclusion Guide to Further Reading 3. Fashion as an Institutionalized System Theoretical Framework of Fashion-ology Fashion as a Myth Supported by the System Different Approaches to Fashion Systems The Beginning of the Fashion System Fashion Production as Collective Activity Empirical Study: The French Fashion System as a Prototype Conclusion Guide to Further Reading 4. Designers: The Personification of Fashion Designers in the Studies of Fashion Designers, Creativity and Social Structure Legitimation of the Designer's Creativity The Star System of Designers Hierarchy among Designers in the Fashion System Conclusion Guide to Further Reading 5. Production, Gatekeeping and Diffusion of Fashion Diffusion Theories of Fashion Gatekeepers: Making Aesthetic Judgments Diffusion Strategies from Fashion Dolls to Fashion Shows Fashion Propaganda through Advertising Conclusion Guide to Further Reading 6. Adoption and Consumption of Fashion Consumption: A Historical Perspective Consuming Fashion as Symbolic Strategy Consumption and Social Status Consumers as Producers Conclusion Guide to Further Reading 7. Youth Subcultural Fashion as an Alternative System The Theoretical Foundation of Subcultures Post-subcultural Theories and Contemporary Youth Subcultures A Systemic Approach to Youth Subcultures and Fashion Punk as a Prototype of a Less-structured Alternative Fashion System The Internal Mechanism of the Alternative Fashion System Conclusion Guide to Further Reading 8. The Impact of Technology in the Changing Fashion Systems Trickle-Across Theory in Practice: A Collapse of Categorical Boundaries A Changing Occupational Structure in Fashion The Decentralization of Fashion Geography from Paris to the World Conclusion Guide to Further Reading 9. Conclusion Appendix: Practical Guide to Sociological Research in Fashion and Dress Notes Bibliography Index